Answers to your questions
Listed below are answers to several questions we get asked all the time. Chances
are, however, you might have a concern that's not listed here. If that is the
case, you can call us at 770-447-6037 (ext. 2) to speak to one of our Client
Service Representatives or e-mail us at info@arbor-nomics.com.
We also recommend the following sites as great sources of information on grass,
trees and shrubs:
1. What are those brown patches in my fescue lawn?
That is Brown Patch Disease. It occurs during times of high humidity and warm
nights. It is especially fond of new seed plants. A lush green fescue lawn is
especially vulnerable, and homeowners with a heavy touch on their sprinkler
system timer only encourage the problem.
Control measures consist of weekly fungicide treatments before the disease
manifests itself, not overdoing the fall aerating and seeding, and limiting
irrigation to one inch per week applied once or twice weekly rather than daily!
You can also ignore the disease and take the money you would have spent on fungicides
and use it towards the fall aerating and overseeding. On sunny lawns, you can
replace the fescue with Bermuda sod.
2. What are the silver dollar sized spots in my yard?
Dollar Spot Disease is named for the silver dollar sized spots that occur in
Bermuda lawns in early summer. Fungicides can be applied to control this problem,
however, a good application of fertilizer can often clear it up effectively.
3. Why does my lawn pull up in sections?
This condition usually indicates a grub problem. As part of their life cycle,
grubs feed on lawn roots. As a result of this, you might notice that your lawn
isn't "greening up" properly in the spring. But by then, it's too
late to address this problem and treatment will have to be delayed until August.
Another indication of a grub infestation is the presence of moles which make
tunnels and feed on the grubs. Controlling the grubs will usually eradicate
the moles.
4. Why do I have weeds on my lawn even though I am an Arbor-Nomics' customer?
While our bi-monthly applications take care of crabgrass and most weeds, there
are certain types of weeds and sedge (tufted plants that are different from
normal grasses) that require specific herbicides apart from what we normally
apply.
One of these "pests" is nutsedge. It's a perennial grass or sedge,
not a weed. Although it is most common in Bermuda lawns, it can grow in all
grasses. Nutsedge grows vertically in single strands. It is a warm season sedge
so you can expect to see it anytime from April until September. Arbor-Nomics
can get rid of it with a highly specific herbicide. Please call us if you think
you have nutsedge. We can identify the problem for you and provide an estimate
for a special application.
Another common problem in Atlanta is a fungus called Brown Patch Disease. Please
see question #1 about this weed.
5. Why isn't my lawn as green as Post Properties (or my golf course)?
Lawns that are maintained by full-time professionals are fertilized a lot more
but this increases the need for more frequent mowing. Bermuda grass, for instance,
needs to be mowed every four days, but most homeowners mow only once a week.
This results in too much of the grass blade being removed with each mowing,
which in turn causes the lawn to turn yellow. Lawns that are maintained with
higher fertility are also more prone to disease.
6. What's the best lawn to have in Atlanta?
In our opinion, sodded Bermuda is the best kind of grass to have; however, it
will not tolerate any shade or grow in between houses. Zoysia and fescue are
more shade tolerant, but are usually over-fertilized by lawn care companies
and homeowners. Same for centipede, and this grass is the fussiest about where
it will grow, which can lead to a spotty lawn.
7. How much water does my lawn need?
The amount of water your lawn requires and receives will determine its overall
health, beauty and ability to withstand use and drought. Keep in mind that too
much water can ruin a lawn just as fast as too little.
One inch a week is the standard water requirement established for most lawns;
however, this will vary with different types of turf. There will also be varying
water requirements for seasonal changes, and still more differences related
to different soil types.
Look at your lawn to determine its water needs. Grass in need of water will
have a grey-blue cast to it, rather than a blue-green or green color. Also,
footprints will still appear after a half-hour or more on a lawn in need of
water, while on well-watered lawns, footprints will completely disappear within
minutes.
You can also use a soil probe, such as a screwdriver or large spike, to determine
how dry your lawn is. If the probe can be pushed into the soil easily, it's
probably still moist, but if it takes a lot of pressure to push in, it's time
to water.
Verify watering quantities using a rain gauge or even a small can. Since your
lawn needs 1" of water each week, make sure you take into consideration
the amount of rain it receives before watering. You also want to know how long
it takes for your sprinkler to water your lawn a certain amount. For example,
if 0.5 cm (0.25-inches) collects in 30 minutes, you can easily calculate that
it will take one hour to apply 1 cm (0.5-inches) of water or two hours to apply
2.5 cm (1-inch).
Water timers can help provide consistency and even be programmed to turn-off
when no one is awake or at home. Some timers measure only the amount of time
water is flowing through the devise, and you need to calculate how long to set
the timer for in order to control the amount of water (see item above). Other
units measure the number of gallons of water flowing through it. Knowing that
600 gallons per 1,000 square feet equals 1" of water will help you calculate
the timer settings your lawn will require.
If you should have any additional questions or concerns, please don't hesitate
to call the office at 770-447-6037 ext. 2 to speak to one of our Client Service
Representatives or e-mail them at info@arbor-nomics.com.
|
