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We know you want your yard to be beautiful and well cared for. We also understand that you want to feel that you are getting the most from our service. To achieve both goals, it’s helpful to describe our role in caring for your property and how we can work together to ensure you have the landscape you’ve always wanted.

Our Role

At Arbor-Nomics® Turf, our focus is on the proper care of existing lawns, tree and shrubs.

Customers often encounter problems that are due to factors beyond our control. A very high percentage of landscape issues emanate from how the plants and lawn were put in (e.g., Bermuda sod laid in the shade, azaleas planted in full sun, or plants put in too deep). As we care for your landscape, we will address these factors. Having said that, here are a few things to keep in mind:


With the unreliable nature of weather forecasts, treatment times/dates may need to shift so we can successfully apply treatments. Most of our applications need to dry on the plant–which can take only a few minutes in the spring, summer and fall—and then be watered in. So rain right after an application is a good thing.


The pre-emergents that we use in the spring and fall control primarily grassy weeds, such as crabgrass and annual bluegrass. We cannot, however, prevent aggressive, unsightly broadleaf weeds from emerging. If these appear, simply notify our office, and we will be out promptly to spray them.

Length of Visit

Our treatments can be applied quickly, so focus on the results that they bring to your lawn, rather than the length of our visit. Our rotary spreaders and spray guns typically cover an eight-foot wide swath, so three or four trips across the lawn usually gives 100% coverage.

Intervals between Applications

We try to space our applications about seven weeks apart. Although weather can affect timing, you should expect no fewer than four weeks and no more than eight weeks between treatments.

Emergency Service Calls

Service calls for urgent matters are made the next business day after you call or email us about your problem. For non-urgent requests, your Certified Landscape Specialist (CLS) will address the problem as soon possible. If you request it, the CLS will call before coming out.

Certified Landscape Specialist Rotation

We try to assign the same CLS to each route every year. When a route becomes very large, it may be necessary to divide it between two CLSs or add additional staff.

Treating Foreign Grasses

A foreign grass is any grass growing in your lawn that is different from the type that makes up the majority of your lawn. For example, if you have a Bermuda lawn and see Fescue coming up, we call that a foreign grass. We will treat a small infestation of foreign grasses for free. But since the treatment products are very expensive, we must charge for an extensive infestation.

Moss Control

Unfortunately, over 30 years we have learned that there is very little that can be done to control moss. In the past, we have tried tilling the soil down a foot deep, installing sod, planting seed, aerating, adding lime, removing trees, etc. But none of these methods have yielded satisfying results.

Missing Bill

Our policy is to leave your bill at the front door. If it's not there, please let us know. We’ll be glad to reprint it. If you prefer that we leave it in a different spot, just let us know and we'll note it on your account. We appreciate your timely attention to the bill so that we can keep your treatments on schedule.


If you would like your gate closed after an application to safeguard pets and children, you can expect your CLS to respect your wishes.

Advance Notice

If you would like to have advance notice of our visits, you can request that we call or email you before we come out to treat your property; we will notify you only if you request us to.

Advice For Property Owners

In order to help us maintain your yard in the best condition possible, we have a few tips that you can follow throughout the year:

Observe your Property

If you do your own landscape maintenance, it's a good idea to do a weekly walk-around of your property to note any changes that might indicate a problem. Notify us about problems between visits to successfully manage your landscape.

Water your Lawn

This is one of the most important tasks you are charged with as far as the health and color of your lawn are concerned. We can assist you in finding a company to install a sprinkler system if you don't have one. If you already have a system and need advice on how often to run it, we can help you with that too. Your lawn should get about 1" of water every week. Use a tuna fish can as a measuring tool. When you water your lawn, place the tuna can on the area being watered. When the tuna can is almost full, you’ve watered enough. This can make a critical difference in the color of your lawn, as well as in its resistance to disease. And if you're wondering why we continue to treat during a drought, your lawn is a living organism that needs nutrients and weed control even though it is going through a dry period.

Don't Overfertilize

Everyone wants their lawn to be green, but trying to achieve this by fertilizing isn’t always best for the lawn. Zoysia and Centipede grasses can be killed back by overfertilizing. Using an organic fertilizer, such as Milorganite, on Bermuda grass in between our visits is a great idea; call us for details.

Look for Diseases

All turf is susceptible to disease at any time, so we need your help to detect problems between our visits. Look over your lawn for off-color rings or patches, browning, and dead spots about the size of a silver dollar. Trees and shrubs are similarly susceptible, and you should look for spots on the leaves and areas of discoloration. If you notice any of these problems, bring them to the attention of your CLS.


Mowing the same day treatment is performed is no problem as long as any application that goes on wet has dried. It's also okay to mow after an application that goes on dry, even if you bag your clippings. While we recommend frequent mowing, we also recommend letting the clippings go back into the soil. It provides nutrients, shades the soil and helps maintain the thatch layer.

Be Aware of Winter Kill

In the spring, many customers notice large dead areas of turf or dead plants. This can be the result of late freezes, fluctuating winter temperatures, grub infestations, or other problems. Consult with your CLS, or call the office, to discuss measures you can take to prevent winter kill.

Look for Pests

Army worms, Japanese beetles, bagworms, Eastern tent caterpillars, euonymus and tea scales, and other pests can work very rapidly. Keep a watchful eye out between our visits to guard against infestation. Call us if think you have a problem.

Soil Amendment

Soil amendment is the process of mixing soil with organic materials, such as peat moss, or inorganic material, such as sand. Research performed at the University of Georgia and University of Oklahoma showed that, with the exception of roses and bedding plants, amended soils actually do more harm than good. Aerating a lawn is a much better alternative. Contact our office for more information.


Most warm-season turfs must have wide-open space and no shade. Zoysia can be more forgiving but still needs its fair amount of direct sunlight, whereas Fescue is best for more shaded areas. However, the timing and duration of shade can make a difference. For example, a lawn that gets morning shade may be okay if it also gets direct afternoon sun. Six to eight hours of direct sunlight is recommended for warm-season turfs.

Seeding Fescue in the Spring

In the South, most people believe the best time to sow new Fescue seed is in the spring, but spring-seeded Fescue does not have enough time to establish strong roots before high temperatures and drought hit in the summer. Also, we apply a pre-emergent in the early spring to prevent crabgrass seed from germinating; the product also prevents Fescue seed from germinating. If you wish to seed in the spring anyway, please notify our office by January 5th, so we can avoid applying the pre-emergent.

Avoid Root Rot

Root rot most often affects junipers, rhododendrons and sometimes azaleas. If these plants are not installed in well-drained soils, they can actually drown from too much water. On a rhododendron or azalea, the telltale sign of root rot is the curling up of leaves. On junipers, look for the browning out of needles. Be aware that this is a hard disease to treat.

Uncommon Grass Types

Most of the lawn types in Atlanta are Fescue, Bermuda and Zoysia. These are the grasses that do best in our climate, and they respond well to our treatments. Occasionally someone will ask about less common grasses, like St. Augustine, Centipede, or Rye grass. We don’t recommend any of these grasses for this area, and they are outside the scope of what we are best equipped to care for.